Sfogliando gli album fotografici mi sono resa conto di aver visitato numerosi cimiteri in tutto il mondo, qualcuno spaventoso e sinistro, qualche altro piu’ simile ad un museo a cielo aperto, ma tutti unici nel loro genere, misteriosi e suggestivi.
Forse a molti sembrera’ un po’ macabro ma a me e’ sempre piaciuto includerli come tappe dei miei viaggi, vuoi perche’ l’esoterismo in tutte le sue sfaccettature mi ha sempre incuriosita o perche’ trovo che siano luoghi affascinanti, ricchi di storia e leggende.
Quidi dedico questa Halloween special edition ai cimiteri incontrati in viaggio e da vedere almeno una volta nella vita.
TERLINGUA CEMETERY – TEXAS
Tappa fortemente voluta durante il mio coast to coast degli Stati Uniti, Terlingua e’ sicuramente la piu’ affascinante tra le centinaia di ghost town che popolano lo Stato del Texas, posta proprio al confine con il Messico.
Nel cimitero riposano i resti dei minatori delle cave di mercurio e di coloro che furono colpiti dall’influenza epidemica del 1918, oltre ai “moderni” abitanti del paese (attualmente sono solo 12).
Ogni anno, durante il cosiddetto Day of the Dead, celebrazione folcroristica di origine messicana, gli ispanici discendenti dalle prime famiglie di Terlingua (successivamente emigrati in Messico) fanno ritorno a casa e si uniscono ai pochi residenti rimasti per onorare gli spiriti dei propri antenati con celebrazioni che hanno il loro culmine proprio all’interno del cimitero, addobbato per l’occasione con fiori, candele e piccoli teschi.
LAKE VIEW CEMETERY – CLEVELAND
Forse ricorderete il mio articolo su Haserot Angel, la scultura sepolcrale piu’ famosa del Lake View Cemetery a Cleveland.
La particolarita’ di questo insolito guardiano alato e’ il volto bronzeo solcato da lacrime nere che lo rendendono una presenza quasi reale, a meta’ tra l’angelico e il demoniaco, molto intrigante ma anche parecchio inquietante.
Il cimitero e’ considerato molto piu’ di un semplice luogo di sepoltura, infatti e’ chiamato dai locali il “museo a cielo aperto” della citta’, perfetto per passeggiare immersi nel silenzio, appartarsi su una panchina a bordo lago a leggere un libro e ammirare i numerosi mausolei, i memoriali a personaggi famosi e gli obelischi sparsi qua e la’.
SEVEN CHURCHES – ARAN ISLANDS, IRLANDA
A Inishmore, la piu’ grande dell’arcipelago delle isole Aran, in Irlanda, si trova Seven Churches (“Na Seacht Teampall” in gaelico), un sito monastico e luogo di pellegrinaggio in cui a dispetto del nome si trovano le rovine di due chiese soltanto, oltre ad un cimitero con lapidi e alcune croci celtiche, che si dice siano le tombe contenenti i resti di sette santi.
KING’S CHAPEL BURYING GROUND, BOSTON
Si tratta del piu’ antico cimitero della citta’, incluso nel Freedom Trail, il percorso pedonale di 4 km nel centro di Boston articolato lungo 16 tappe per riscoprire gli avvenimenti legati alla Rivoluzione Americana.
Il cimitero ospita i resti di numerosi personaggi storici, ma pochi sanno che tra le centinaia di tombe si trova anche quella di Elizabeth Pain, donna vissuta nella Boston dell’eta’ coloniale e processata dopo la morte sospetta del figlio. Venne prosciolta dall’accusa di omicidio ma ritenuta colpevole di negligenza e in seguito frustata. Sembra che alla sua storia e alla sua lapide (che riporta, come vedete sotto, una grossa A) abbia tratto ispirazione Nathaniel Hawthorne per ricreare il personaggio di Hester Prynne, protagonista del famosissimo romanzo La lettera scarlatta.
CIMITERO EBRAICO, PRAGA
Il vecchio cimitero ebraico di Praga risale al 15esimo secolo ed e’ uno dei luoghi piu’ singolari e suggestivi in cui mi sia mai capitato di imbattermi.
Il numero di ebrei qui sepolti e’ tuttora incerto poiche’ sono stati individuati fino a 12 strati di tombe, ammassate una sopra l’altra a partire dal 1439.
Si ritiene vi siano circa 12mila lapidi e circa 100.000 sepolture.
L’altissima densita’ di lapidi, impilate caoticamente e la mancanza di luce a causa delle ampie fronde degli alberi sovrastanti creano un’atmosfera spettrale imperdibile.
ST LOUIS CEMETERY N.1, NEW ORLEANS
Nella citta’ meno americana degli Stati Uniti, intrinsa di misticismo, rituali magici e mistero, i cimiteri rappresentano un perfetto punto di partenza per la sua esplorazione.
Il piu’ antico e famoso di New Orleans e’ il St Louis Cemetery N.1 ed e’ anche il piu’ suggestivo poiche’ si dice vi sia sepolta la piu’ importante sacerdotessa del voodoo: Marie Lauveau. La tradizione vuole che chi visiti la sua tomba debba girarle attorno tre volte, incidere sulle mura della cripta tre X ed infine lasciare come pegno un’offerta o un oggetto personale.
ST JUST IN ROSELAND, CORNOVAGLIA
L’incantevole Chiesa di St. Just (nella foto-copertina dell’articolo) si trova nel cuore verde dell’Inghilterra ed e’ stata una delle tappe piu’ belle del mio on the road in Cornovaglia.
Risalente al 13esimo secolo, ospita anche un cimitero piuttosto sinistro affacciato su uno stagno acquitrinoso e posto all’interno di un giardino caratterizzato da piante subtropicali (alcune delle quali molto rare), liane, muschi e un numero imprecisato di corvi e cornacchie che incupiscono ulteriormente l’atmosfera.
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