Immerso tra le dolci colline assolate del Chianti Classico (a Gaiole del Chianti per l’esattezza), arroccato sulla sommita’ di un poggio circondato da vigneti e uliveti, si trova il borgo di Ama, talmente incantevole che sembra quasi dipinto.
“Ama vanta una storia antichissima: venne fondato gia’ ai tempi degli Etruschi e sin da subito si distinse per l’ottima produzione di vino e olio, attivita’ che continuo’ a prosperare durante l’Impero Romano e nel Medioevo, fino a quando non incominciarono le rivalita’ tra Siena e Firenze.
E’ a questo punto che il borgo si trasformo’ in fortezza e un castello venne eretto per proteggere i suoi abitanti. Purtroppo quest’ultimo venne distrutto nel 1500, ma continua a rivivere nel nome fino ad oggi.
Nel 1800 due famiglie edificarono sulle rovine del castello due ville, dei Pianigiani e dei Ricucci, sviluppando la viticoltura a tal punto che negli anni precedenti alla Grande Guerra si contavano piu’ di 100 residenti.
Dopo la crisi degli anni successivi il numero scese drasticamente a 5.
Nel 1972 quattro famiglie romane comprarono le due ville patronali e il terreno circostante ed esattamente 10 anni dopo decisero di assumere un enologo, Marco Pallanti, alla sua prima esperienza lavorativa, destinato a rendere noto il nome del Castello di Ama in tutto il mondo.
Quando Marco arrivo’ in azienda il Chianti era ancora considerato un vino poco prestigioso, da “osteria”, ma questo non gli impedi’ di portare avanti la sua ambiziosa missione: nobilitare uno dei vini piu’ antichi d’Italia rimanendo fedele alla tradizione.
Studió quindi il terroir circostante e selezionó accuratamente gli appezzamenti migliori per la coltivazione di ciscuna tipologia d’uva.
Dopo anni di lavoro, tentativi ed esperimenti, lanció sul mercato due prodotti pioneristici nel loro genere: Chianti Classico La Casuccia e Chianti Classico Bellavista, due cru prodotti negli omonimi vigneti e soltanto nelle migliori annate.
I riconoscimenti internazionali non si fanno attendere: Wine Spectator, una delle piu’ importanti autoritá mondiali in tema di vino, assegna 95 punti al Chianti Classico San Lorenzo Gran Selezione 2010 e lo annovera al sesto posto tra i migliori 10 vini del 2014.
Ma non finisce qui: L’Apparita IGT (Merlot in purezza) diventa un vero e proprio vino cult tra gli estimatori dopo aver vinto nel 1990 a Zurigo le Olimpiadi del Vino, battendo il celeberrimo Château Petrus.
Nel corso degli anni Marco si innamora di Lorenza, una delle figlie dei fondatori del Castello di Ama e insieme riportano in auge il nome di un borgo antico centinaia d’anni.”
A questo punto Sigrid, la nostra guida italo-tedesca ed esperta di vini, fa una pausa per mostrare al gruppo le vigne San Lorenzo, quelle da cui si ottiene uno dei prodotti di punta, indicando come a sinistra in alto sia piantato il Sangiovese, a destra il Pinot Nero e in basso lo Chardonnay.
E’ una giornata splendida di inizio giugno, l’aria frizzante e il panorama tutto intorno pacifica i sensi e dona tranquillita’.
Il Castello di Ama e’ collocato nell’area piu’ storica del Chianti, chiamata anche Conca D’oro e caratterizzata in generale da vini di alta qualita’ in cui si trova il terroir ideale per il Sangiovese.
Sigrid ci tiene a precisare che in azienda la vendemmia viene ancora fatta a mano, le uve sono selezionate e ricontrollate piu’ volte per garantire la migliore qualita’.
Poi ci conduce all’interno dello stabilimento, dove incomincia il processo di vinificazione, in tini di acciaio.
Ci spiega i dettagli della prima e seconda fermentazione alcolica e poi ci conduce nella prima barriccaia, dove si trovano Chianti Classico e Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ad invecchiare al punto giusto prima di essere imbottigliati.
Al centro della stanza, pendente dal soffitto, c’e’ uno strano lampadario di vetro.
“Non si tratta di un lampadario – prosegue Sigrid – ma di una scultura. Marco e Lorenza sono grandi estimatori d’arte contemporanea e ogni anno invitano al Castello un artista di fama internazionale, che in cambio dona la sua opera.”
Per me, appassionata di vino e di arte, non potevano esistere parole migliori da udire.
Il borgo si trasforma allora in un museo a cielo aperto, ricco di opere dai significati intensi.
L’opera zero e’ L’albero di Ama di Pistoletto, collocata nell’anticamera della cantina storica, dove sono custoditi i vini piu’ pregiati.
L’idea del connubio arte-vino piacque talmente tanto a Marco e Lorenza che alla fine, anno dopo anno, si venne a creare una vera e propria collezione di arte contemporanea.
Ad oggi si trovano sparse qua e la’ nella tenuta 14 opere, tutte di sorprendente valore artistico e di grande varieta’ culturale: si passa dal capolavoro dell’indiano Anish Kapoor (l’ideatore del “Fagiolone” di Chicago) all’interno della cappella settecentesca di San Venanzio, alle macchie di colore sul selciato di fronte a villa Ricucci dell’africano Pascale Tayou; dalle molteplici mura in miniatura del cubano Carlos Garaicoa, alle “finestre” sulle vigne di Daniel Buren; dai simpatici scarabocchi sui muri del russo Solakov, fino all’opera di Kendell Geers intitolata “Revolution”: un’imponente scritta rossa al neon che campeggia sulla parete della barriccaia dove viene lasciato ad invecchiare L’Apparita.
Dulcis in fundo, si ritorna alla villa per la degustazione! Tutti vini rossi chiaramente, ma Castello di Ama produce anche un rosato e un bianco (Chardonnay + Pinot Grigio).
Il primo vino proposto e’ un Chianti Classico DOCG 2011 chiamato semplicemente Ama, composto da 96% di uve Sangiovese e 4% di Merlot. Dopo 10 mesi in barrique e 7 di affinamento in bottiglia, questo vino si presenta di un bel rosso brillante, con sentori di frutta (ciliegia soprattutto), dal gusto pieno e strutturato. Si adatta bene a pasti leggeri come verdure e pesce. L’annata 2011 e’ stata molto calda e secca e questo e’ cio’ che si ritrova nel calice: gusto pieno, armonioso e persistente.
Si passa quindi al Chianti Classico San Lorenzo Gran Selezione DOCG 2010, la prima annata in cui Marco decide di passare dalla Riserva alla Gran Selezione. 80% Sangiovese e 20% Merlot e Malvasia Nera, questo Chianti passa 12 mesi in barrique e 18 in bottiglia, colore rosso rubino, bouquet intenso di frutti di bosco maturi, bilanciato al gusto, tannini non aggressivi. Adatto a pasti a base di carne.
Siamo ora pronti per Haiku, un rosso IGT composto da 50% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot e 25% Cabernet Franc, quindi un vino decisamente improntato verso il Bordeaux.
Haiku e’ la poesia piu’ breve del mondo (composta da sole tre righe), ma nonostante la sua brevita’ e’ portatrice di pensieri ed emozioni. Allo stesso modo vuole proporsi questo vino: si ritrova dentro tutto il territorio del Chianti.
Haiku trascorre 12 mesi in barrique e 12 in bottiglia prima di essere messo in vendita. Ha un profumo di affumicato che lo rendono un match perfetto con carne alla griglia. Sul finale e’ un po’ amarognolo e allora la nostra sempre presente guida ci suggerisce di assaggiare un po’ dell’olio di loro produzione (fantastico!) prima di riprovare Haiku, che risulta adesso molto piu’ vellutato e piacevole.
La degustazione non puo’ che concludersi con L’Apparita IGT 2010, il vino di punta e orgoglio del Castello di Ama.
Merlot in purezza, trascorre 18 mesi in barrique e 2 anni in bottiglia, ma Sigrid ci assicura che sara’ ottimo anche tra 30 anni.
Al primo assaggio nel palato si mescolano liquirizia, marmellata e cioccolato. I tannini sono vellutati e il gusto intenso e armonioso.
Sebbene il Chianti non sia mai stato tra i miei vini preferiti, quello prodotto dal Castello di Ama ha saputo stregarmi sorso dopo sorso, non solo per l’eccellente qualita’ ma soprattutto per la personalita’ marcata.
Nel calice si ritrova tutto il meglio che questa idilliaca fetta di Toscana ha da offrire, una sintesi armoniosa ed elegante tra tradizione, terroir e passione per il vino.
Insomma una storia d’amore che come tutte le migliori favole, non puo’ che concludersi con E vissero per sempre felici e contenti.
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