Questo amore mi ha portata alla fine a prendere la decisione di trasferirmi oltreoceano e quello che doveva essere un semplice viaggio a tempo indeterminato si e’ trasformato in un’esperienza lunga tre anni in cui ho vissuto sulla mia pelle il significato dell’American Dream, in cui ho conosciuto pro e contro di questo immenso Paese, tanto ricco di possibilita’ e liberta’ quanto di contraddizioni, ma che ha ricambiato i miei sentimenti, regalandomi forse i migliori anni della mia vita.
Senza troppi timori, ho quindi impacchettato la mia vita, insieme alle aspettative un po’ idealizzate sull’America e sono volata a Miami.
La realta’, che ha incominciato ad affiorare solo dopo un anno circa dal mio trasferimento, mi ha colpita come il Titanic colpi’ l’iceberg che lo fece affondare. E le mie aspettative di moderna terra promessa, di paradiso delle liberta’ e di vita autentica affondate con esso. Colate a picco. Stese li’, sul fondo dell’oceano che ingenuamente hanno cercato di attraversare.
Non posso dire che Miami non meriti un viaggio, perche’ sarebbe ipocrita da parte mia visto tutto il tempo che ci ho vissuto, ma proprio perche’ ho imparato a conoscerla, so cosa si cela dietro l’iniziale euforia.
Incominciamo dai lati positivi.
Miami e’ una metropoli dinamica e in rapida espansione: i grattacieli spuntano come funghi nella zona finanziaria della citta’ e con essi i posti di lavoro e il benessere economico.
L’incontro tra la popolazione americana e le altre etnie crea un panorama culturale ricco e sfaccettato.
Non a caso il soprannome di Miami e’ capital of Latin America: e’ la seconda citta’ piu’ grande degli USA in cui la maggior parte della popolazione parla spagnolo come prima lingua (oltre il 70% del totale) e la numero uno per presenza di popolazione cubano-americana. Negli anni ho conosciuto molti italiani in visita a Miami per imparare l’inglese e ogni volta la mia domanda era sempre la stessa: “Ma non lo sai che qui si parla solo spagnolo?”. Reggaeton e musica latino-americana si sentono sempre alla radio e in molti locali; i ristoranti che offrono cucina cubana, argentina, peruviana sono numerosissimi, colorati e vivaci come solo i sudamericani sanno esserlo.
Miami ospita inoltre la seconda (dopo New York) piu’ grossa comunita’ ebraica degli Stati Uniti con sinagoghe, ristoranti e market kosher annessi. L’Holocaust Memorial, il bellissimo monumento in memoria delle vittime della Shoah, si innalza orgoglioso nel cuore di Miami Beach.
Notevoli anche le dimensioni della comunita’ italiana, la maggior parte a South Beach, e sono molteplici i ristoranti italiani e i prodotti alimentari importati dal Bel Paese, facilmente reperibili in tutti i supermercati. Gli italiani di Miami Beach si conoscono tutti e spesso ho l’impressione di non aver mai lasciato il piccolo paesino della Brianza da cui provengo, in cui i gossip circolano piu’ veloci della luce e in cui passeggiando per le vie del centro immancabilmente incontri qualcuno che conosci.
Miami detiene anche il primato di cruise capital of the world e alcune delle piu’ grandi navi da crociera sono ormeggiate qui, con navi in partenza ogni giorno per le Bahamas e i Caraibi a prezzi davvero accessibili a tutti, della durata di 3 o 4 giorni (Royal Caribbean, Norwegian e Carnival sono le principali compagnie che operano).
Ogni dicembre inoltre Miami Beach ospita l’Art Basel, una delle piu’ grandi esposizioni d’arte di tutti gli Stati Uniti, che unisce arte, design, cinema, architettura.
Il quartiere di Wynwood, con la sua atmosfera underground, i magazzini dismessi trasformati in moderne gallerie d’arte e design, i coloratissimi murales e graffiti, e’ un’oasi alternativa in cui rifugiarsi per allontanarsi dal mainstream di Miami e dalla confusione di South Beach. Generalmente e’ un luogo da evitare di sera perche’ poco sicuro, ma il secondo sabato sera di ogni mese tutte le strade del quartiere si affollano con centinaia di persone, le gallerie d’arte tengono aperte fino a tardi e sono gratuite, i locali lungo la via principale, la NW 2nd ave, si animano di luci e dj.
L’oceano (che a mia sorpresa non e’ per nulla freddo!), l’immensa spiaggia che si snoda per chilometri, il clima da abbronzatura e infradito perenni non fanno che rendere il quadro perfetto. Svegliarsi la mattina con un bel sole e il cielo blu a caricare di positivita’ ed energia la giornata e’ un vantaggio non da poco.
Ma come sempre, non e’ tutto oro quello che luccica e la Gold Rush (Corsa all’Oro) si e’ conclusa nella seconda meta’ dell’Ottocento.
Per quanto sia forse la meno americana delle citta’ statunitensi, complice l’altissima percentuale di popolazione latina e la sua posizione che le vale anche il nome di gateway to the Americas, Miami e’ un concentrato di contraddizioni e eccessi, la cartina di tornasole dell’America, l’altra faccia del sogno americano, che promette prosperita’ e benessere economico ma che affonda le sue radici nell’ineguaglianza.
E’ anche una citta’ piena di apparenza e finzione, in cui persino i manichini dei negozi di abbigliamento hanno dei grossi seni rifatti, in cui le fragole che si comprano al supermercato tutto l’anno appaiono sempre succose ed invitanti, ma una volta assaggiate ci si rende conto di quanto siano insapori. A Miami se vieni approciato in discoteca o in un locale elegante da una bella ragazza hai un’altissima probabilita’ che sia una escort pronta a spillarti i soldi dal portafogli.
Al supermercato, nel reparto per bambini, ho visto un gioco in scatola con tutti i pezzi per assemblare…hamburger. I cari vecchi Lego con cui da piccoli costruivamo case e palazzi qui non sarebbero apprezzati, anche perche’ probabilmente si fa prima a costruire una casa prefabbricata stile americano che una in miniatura con i Lego.
Auto lussuose sfrecciano a tutte le ore per le strade di Miami (Ferrari e Lamborghini sono all’ordine del giorno), yacht grossi come il mio appartamento ormeggiati a centinaia, night club costosi ed eleganti in cui la droga e’ alla portata di tutti.
Downtown e’ costellata di grattacieli con appartamenti di lusso, completi di palestra, piscine, sauna, sala cinema, ma basta letteralmente girare l’angolo per incontrare dozzine di vagabondi e senzatetto accampati alla bell’ e’ meglio, spesso drogati in cerca della prossima dose.
Mi aveva molto colpita un sondaggio pubblicato tempo fa da un economista e professore dell’Universita’ di Harvard che ha chiesto a piu di 5.000 americani come credevano fosse distribuita la ricchezza nel loro Paese. 9 su 10 e’ completamente in errore su quella che e’ la reale distribuzione della ricchezza oggi negli Stati Uniti e la realta’ che emerge dallo studio e’ scioccante: l’1% piu’ ricco della popolazione detiene circa il 40% della ricchezza totale, mentre l’80% alla base della piramide sociale si spartisce solo il 7% della ricchezza nazionale.
Questo gap incolmabile tra ricchi e poveri, particolarmente evidente a Miami (in una maniera sfacciata direi), e’ sconcertante e l’incuranza degli organi governativi verso coloro che non possono permettersi un’assicurazione sanitaria e’ inconcepibile per un paese che affonda le sue radici in un documento come la Dichiarazione di Indipendenza risalente al 1776 in cui si affermano ideali di uguaglianza, di giustizia, di benessere condiviso e diritti inalienabili tra cui vita, liberta’ e perseguimento della felicita’ a tutti gli uomini.
Qualcosa non torna. Qualcosa deve essersi inceppato negli ingranaggi di questa nazione, le cue disparita’ sociali e antinomie sono troppo marcate per restare inosservate.
Possibile che anche io mi sia lasciata accecare dal mito? Possibile che l’America di oggi non sia altro che uno specchietto per allodole, che attira ogni anno milioni di persone con la falsa promessa di una vita migliore?
Non posso e non voglio crederci. Voglio dare una possibilita’ di riscatto a questo stupendo Paese che mi ha dato tanto e mi ha accolta a braccia aperte. Glielo devo.
Quale modo migliore se non attraverso un viaggio epico on the road alla (ri)scoperta del mito, alla ricerca di cio’ che e’ finzione e di cio’ che non lo e’.
Un viaggio nell’America di oggi attraverso i suoi luoghi-simbolo per scoprire la nascita di quel sogno a stelle e strisce che ancora oggi affascina milioni di persone, che affascina me.
Un coast to coast da Miami (Florida) fino a San Diego (California), ritrovando lungo il tragitto il contatto con la natura che qui e’ grandiosa, guidando per ore nelle aride e desertiche terre del Sud, attraverso il mitico Far West, la Route 66, tra parchi nazionali, paesaggi mozzafiato e citta’ ricche di storia e tradizioni, fino alla famosa west coast, spero non senza piacevoli imprevisti e avventure.
30 giorni, 10 stati, 7.000 km. Pronti, partenza, via!
NB: solo macchina e aereo finale da San Diego a Miami sono stati prenotati prima della partenza. Per il noleggio auto come sempre mi sono affidata a www.enoleggioauto.it che ha prezzi molto competitivi, tasse e assicurazione incluse nel prezzo. Per il biglietto aereo ho utilizzato www.skyscanner.com che non trattiene alcuna commissione e compara centinaia di voli per trovare i piu’ economici.
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