Il percorso panoramico si snoda per circa 10 km tra Oia, Imerovigli, Firostefani e Fira, alternando momenti all’interno di questi quattro paesi da cartolina, a parti piu’ impegnative in mezzo alla natura, con salite e discese ripide e strapiombi sul mare, passando per numerose chiesette in tipico stile cicladico, silenziose e isolate.
I momenti migliori per percorrere le circa tre ore di cammino sono la mattina presto e il tardo pomeriggio, quando si puo’ godere del famoso tramonto di Santorini da punti di vista insoliti e senza confusione.
Partiamo dall’assunto che nella mia vita ho fato ben poco trekking, quindi col cavolo che ho impiegato solo tre ore a completare la passeggiata! Senza contare le frequenti soste per scattare fotografie, godermi i panorami e scambiare due chiacchere con le altre persone incontrate. Alla fine mi sono ritrovata a percorrere i chilometri finali con il sole di mezzogiorno di una calda giornata di inizio settembre che mi batteva sulla testa! Ma a parte questo, direi che e’ andata piuttosto bene: il percorso non e’ troppo faticoso (ma sono sicura che per voi appassionati sara’ una sciocchezza), le viste sulla caldera sono a dir poco incantevoli e l’escursione e’ un’ottima occasione per visitare in un giorno solo quattro tra i paesini piu’ pittoreschi dell’isola.
Dopo una super colazione alla greca (frutta, sfornato di melanzane, salsiccia e patate e caffé), ho imbucato il sentiero all’altezza del supermarket Perivolas, dove ho fatto rifornimento d’acqua.
Oia e’ sicuramente il paesino piu’ caratteristico di tutta Santorini ed e’ costituito da una miriade di casette bianche, mulini a vento, chiese con le cupole blu, viuzze tortuose e alberghi costosissimi con piscine a bordo caldera.
La prima parte del trekking consiste in una passeggiata attraverso il paese, che si sviluppa in lunghezza per circa 1 km.
In lontananza, nonostante la lieve foschia mattutina, riesco gia’ a scorgere la meta finale e gran parte del cammino che mi aspetta, inerpicato tra il nero delle alture e il blu del Mare Egeo.
Da Oia a Imerovigli mi ritrovo immersa nella natura brulla e selvaggia piu’ tipica di Santorini, camminando letteralmente lungo l’orlo della caldera.
Le isolette di Nea e Palea Kameni, proprio al centro del mare, sebbene siano chiamate “vulcano” in realta’ costituiscono solo la sua sommita’. 3600 anni fa, infatti, in seguito ad una disastrosa eruzione esplosiva, l’intero cono vulcanico sprofondo’ nelle profondita’ del mare, lasciando in superficie solo parte del perimetro originario (o caldera) dell’immenso bacino vulcanico, costituito dall’attuale complesso insulare di Santorini, Thirasia, Thera e Aspronisi.
Ritrovarsi a passeggiare sulla terra lavica del cratere di un vulcano quiescente e’ sicuramente un’esperienza che non capita tutti i giorni!
Lasciate alle spalle le ultime abitazioni di Oia, incomincia la parte piu’ impegnativa del trekking: la salita di Mavro Vouno (la Montagna Nera), sulla cui sommita’, a circa 300 m di altezza, si trova la chiesetta rosa di Stavros, da cui si gode di una gran bella vista a 360 gradi.
Il sentiero prosegue alle spalle dell’altura per circa mezz’ora, fino a quando non mi imbatto in un improbabile chioschetto in cui mi fermo per un succo di frutta fresco e per riprendere fiato.
Da li’ percorro la strada asfaltata per circa 300 metri, per poi imboccare nuovamente la salita che porta verso Imerovigli.
Dopo circa 1 km raggiungo la chiesa del Profeta Elia, con quello stile inconfondibile fatto di muri bianchissimi, cupolona blu e tante piccole campane che, devo ammeterlo, essendo completamente sola, non ho potuto non suonare! Dall’ampio piazzale antistante la vista al tramonto deve essere semplicemente perfetta.
Dopo una decina di minuti, con gia’ la prossima tappa in vista, arrivo alla cappella di Agios Markos, circondata da cipressi e ideale per un picnic.
Pochi passi ancora e giungo al villaggio tradizionale de Imerovigli, molto meno caotico di Oia e altrettanto suggestivo, punteggiato di ristoranti e hotel di lusso.
Svetta sull’intero paese la Fortezza di Skaros, la piu’ importante delle cinque fortificazioni dell’isola, costruita in epoca bizantina come protezione contro i pirati e un tempo capitale e sede amministrativa di Santorini.
Se vi va potete fare una piccola deviazione e raggiungere la sommita’ del promontorio roccioso dove si trovano le rovine dell’antico insediamento e una piccola cappella.
Il sentiero prosegue passando accanto alla meravigliosa Chiesa Ortodossa di Anastasi (Resurrezione), per poi immergersi nuovamente nella natura.
Passato il monastero di St. Nikolaos, arrivo a Firostefani, cittadina oramai inglobata, direi quasi fagocitata, dalla vicina Fira.
Firostefani viene anche chiamata “tetto” dell’isola poiche’ sorge sul punto piu’ alto della caldera e offre percio’ degli scorci meravigliosi. E’ anche uno dei villaggi piu’ romantici e tranquilli, ideali per una passeggiata lontani dalla confusione della sua vicina.
La tappa finale del trekking e’ Fira, capitale e punto nevralgico dell’isola, edificata nel 19esimo secolo, dopo che la vecchia capitale a Skaros divenne inaccessibile a causa di un terremoto.
Personalmente non ho sentito nessun tipo di connesione con la citta’: troppo caos, troppi negozi “trappole per turisti” e troppi croceristi…insomma troppo tutto e niente autenticita’!
A salvarla dallo zero soltanto il museo archeologico e le chiese, meravigliose come tutte le altre, in particolare la Cattedrale della Presentazione di Cristo e la Chiesa di St. Giovanni Battista, esempio piu’ significativo del Cattolicesimo a Santorini, in cui si tengono funzioni religiose tutti i giorni.
Per rientrare a Oia ho scelto il bus locale, al costo di 1-2 euro.
Ci sono due fattori pratici da tenere presenti nella scelta della direzione dell’escursione: la differente altitudine a cui sono poste Oia e Fira e la posizione del sole durante la giornata.
Oia si trova piu’ in basso quindi e’ piu’ semplice percorrere il tragitto in quella direzione (primo errore! Ma che ci posso fare, l’ho scoperto solo ad opera conclusa!); inoltre se decidete di intraprendere il cammino la mattina avrete il sole che vi batte in faccia camminando in direzione Fira (seconda scelta sbagliata! Non ne azzecco una!), mentre al tramonto..beh al tramonto non potete che andare in direzione Oia per godervi in prima fila ogni singola sfumatura del cielo!
Insomma, scelte sbagliate a parte, devo dire che ero fiera di me stessa per avercela fatta senza combinare troppi disastri e per giunta completamente da sola, ma ripeto, per voi sono sicura che sara’….una PASSEGGIATA…tra le piu’ spettacolari della vostra vita!
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