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Irlanda on the road
6 December 2014
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Chiunque torni da un viaggio in Irlanda e nelle sue mirabilia naturali puntualmente si ammala di un malessere che non puo’ essere curato, nemmeno con medicine e antibiotici: il Mal d’Irlanda.

Io non sono mai guarita da quell’estate di qualche anno fa, quando sono partita per un’avventura tutta on the road in questa magica isola.

E dopo mesi, anni addirittura, mi porto ancora dentro i prati verdi e rigogliosi che si estendono a perdita d’occhio (da qui il soprannome di Isola di smeraldo) e le adorabili pecorelle bianche col musetto nero, gli antichi castelli arroccati su colline e scogliere, la forte brezza al profumo di salsedine, ma soprattutto non mi scordero’ mai la gentilezza, l’ospitalita’ e la vitalita’ degli irlandesi.

Il mio viaggio e’ incominciato a Dublino, presso cui ho trascorso un paio di giorni ed e’ proseguito percorrendo l’intera isola in senso antiorario, con tappe di uno o massimo due giorni, senza aver prenotato nulla in anticipo. Tempo totale: 2 settimane.

Innanzitutto, guai a pensare che l’Irlanda sia rispecchiata soltanto dalla sua capitale, Dublino! Giusto il tempo di abituarmi alla guida a sinistra (un trauma se devo dirla tutta) e alla strana pronuncia irlandese, di un drink a Temple Bar e un’ottima birra durante la visita alla fabbrica della Guinness, di una passeggiata all’interno di Dublin Castle e Trinity College (la piu’ antica e prestigiosa universita’ irlandese fondata nel 1592 dalla regina Elisabetta I) e mi sono subito allontanata dalla citta’, in direzione Irlanda del Nord, precisamente a Ballycastle, pittoresco paesino portuale.

Qui ho alloggiato presso il piu’ accogliente e romantico B&B in cui sia mai stata: Kenmara House, una casetta in stile vittoriano, curata in ogni suo dettaglio e a strapiombo sul mare, proprieta’ del Sig. Ernie Shannon, che io ho subito rinominato “Uncle Ernie”, gentile e premuroso proprio come fossi parte della sua famiglia.
Inoltre, se come me visitate la costa nord in estate, potrete assistere a un suggestivo fenomeno naturale: il tramonto del sole in tarda serata (circa le 23). La vista dalla scogliera e dalle stesse camere del B&B al tramonto, con la sagoma indistinta dell’Isola di Rathlin in lontananza, e’ qualcosa di imperdibile.

Dopo una bella colazione con pane tostato, marmellate e miele fatto in casa, ho proseguito verso ovest fino a Carrick-a-Rede, una scogliera raggiungibile dopo una piacevole passeggiata di 1 km circa, in cui si trova un ponte di corda sospeso sul mare che dal 1874 collega la terraferma ad un isolotto (paradiso per gli amanti della pesca).
Da qui, nelle giornate particolarmente terse, si possono ammirare le coste della Scozia o ci si puo’ semplicemente sdraiare sull’erba soffice e godersi il suono dell’oceano che s’infrange sugli scogli.

Poco distante si trova uno dei paesaggi piu’ suggestivi e unici dell’Irlanda: Giant’s Causeway (Strada del gigante): una superficie piuttosto ampia (raggiunge le coste della Scozia) costituita da migliaia di colonne basaltiche a base esagonale di formazione vulcanica, attualmente riserva naturale e patrimonio dell UNESCO.
Secondo un’antica leggenda il gigante Finn costrui’ questa possente passerella naturale per poter raggiungere le coste scozzesi dove si trovava la donna di cui era perdutamente innamorato.

Breve tappa a Galway e poi ho raggiunto il piccolo villaggio di Doolin, dove alle 10 del mattino mi sono imbarcata per Inishmore, la piu’ grande dell’arcipelago delle Aran Island, in cui vale sicuramente la pena pernottare e magari noleggiare una bici per scoprirla ed esplorarla come merita.
L’atmosfera e’ quella della vecchia Irlanda, in cui i ritmi e lo stile di vita, le tradizioni e la lingua sono ancora quelli di un tempo, intatti, nonostante il turismo.
Si parla infatti ancora gaelico e i piccoli agglomerati urbani dell’isola sono costituiti da poche decine di cottage separati da muretti in pietra, mentre l’attivita’ principale dei suoi abitanti consiste nella produzione di maglioni in lana di pecora bianca fatti a mano.
Imperdibile il forte preistorico Dun Aengus (datato al 1000 a.c.) eretto proprio sul costone di una scogliera a picco sull’oceano e Seven Churches, un antichissimo sito monastico in cui si trovano, a dispetto del nome, solo due chiese oltre a tombe con croci celtiche e rovine.

Proseguendo il tragitto verso sud, a 10 minuti da Doolin, si trovano le celeberrime Cliffs of Moher, scogliere lunghe 8 km che si ergono tra i 100 e 200 metri d’altezza sull’Oceano Atlantico, divise idealmente da O’Brien’s Tower, una solitaria torre cilindrica in pietra dalla cui cima si possono ammirare le Aran Islands, nella baia di Galway.
Nonostante un cartello intimi a non proseguire, prendetevi del tempo per una bella passeggiata. I sentieri sono scoscesi, a pochi metri dall’estremita’ della scogliera e senza recinzioni, il che rende tutto molto emozionante e liberatorio.
Al tramonto vedrete moltissime persone, turisti e non, seduti sul ciglio, con i piedi a penzoloni nel vuoto, ad ammirare il cielo d’Irlanda colorarsi di poesia.

Scendendo verso sud, si trova il Ring of Kerry, un loop panoramico per la maggior parte costiero e tortuoso, lungo 200 km circa, le cui tappe principali sono (in senso orario): la cittadina di KillarneyKillarney National Park e le cascate Torc che scorrono al suo interno, Muckross House (una bellissima mansione in stile tudor risalente al 1843 con incantevoli giardini annessi), il paesino di Kenmare e la penisola Iveragh (una delle “dita” dell’area sud-ovest d’Irlanda) ricca di spiagge, campagne verdeggianti e dolci colline, villaggi caratteristici e scorci splendidi, come da Rossbeigh Beach.

La sperduta Mizen Head e’ l’ultima delle cinque penisole del Sud-Ovest ed e’ caratterizzata da una stazione meteorologica, un faro e un piccolo museo, raggiungibili attraverso un ponte sospeso e un sentiero di 99 gradini inerpicati lungo pareti rocciose con viste mozzafiato.
In questo scenario, Guglielmo Marconi trascorse del tempo sperimentando metodi per mandare messaggi radio oltreoceano.

Breve tappa a Cork, uno dei piu’ importanti porti naturali d’Europa e un tempo completamente solcata da canali, per poi terminare il viaggio nel punto di partenza.

Paesaggi marittimi e silvestri, scogliere e prati a perdita d’occhio, tutti legati da un prezioso filo conduttore: il verde. Il verde tutto intorno. Il verde che quieta l’anima. Il polmone di un Paese che forse, troppo spesso e ingiustamente, resta nascosto all’ombra del vicino gigante britannico.

Non e’ un caso allora che ad una particolare tonalita’ di verde, quella presente nella bandiera nazionale, sia stato dato il nome d’ “irlandese”.

Il cielo d’Irlanda ha i tuoi occhi se guardi lassù, ti annega di verde e ti copre di blu.
Dal Donegal alle isole Aran e da Dublino fino al Connemara, dovunque tu stia viaggiando il cielo d’Irlanda si muove con te, il cielo d’Irlanda è dentro di te. [1]

[1] Frasi tratte dalla canzone “Il cielo d’Irlanda” di Fiorella Mannoia, 1992, album “I treni a vapore”, composta da Massimo Bubola

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